Greeting from Bill Boxer, Sr. Vice President,
Apollo Sprayers International, Inc
IWF2016 was one of the most successful woodworking shows I’ve attended in the past 32 years. Attendance was up, interest was high and many new products exhibited.
Apollo Sprayers was in the mix as they say. Apollo, once again pushing the limits, introduced a new model the PRECISION-6 a system with 30% more power and pressure than a five stage system. And, while this might be more than the average woodworker might need for their finishing needs, the performance of this unique, patent pending system, is unprecedented for HVLP.
It meets the need to spray higher viscosity and production coatings with ease and the production speed necessary for the larger shop applications, desirous of achieving the highest efficiency possible while producing the finest class A finish.
This is all part of Apollo’s program to meet the needs of all woodworkers from the modest small shop to the larger production applications. Apollo HVLP has now reached into the territory of Air Assisted Airless technology with the benefits of TrueHVLP.
Going into IWF with the PRECISION-6 was an unknown. It didn’t take long for us to see the enthusiasm in the market for the new system which instantly converted into sales.
This is the part of working with our products that I still find exciting every day.
Be sure to look at all of the Apollo websites regularly. Things are always changing. You’ll be the first to know about the newest and latest HVLP technology.
Our unique high performance POWER BOOST TECHNOLOGY, PBT™ offers the highest maximum attainable HVLP pressure to spray the newest and latest coating technology, including high viscous, high solids products. 30% more pressure than a 5 stage system.
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Click here for a list of our distributors.
Featured Article by William Bardick Using a Tung Oil Finish
There are many ways to clear coat your project but if you have the time and plenty of elbow grease, a tung oil finish is hard to beat for achieving a deep clear luster, durability, repair-ability and ease of application. Follow these simple steps and I’m confident you will be happy with the results.
Sand, sand, then sand some more. Remember I mentioned elbow grease, you will need it now. I sand up to 320 grit with a random orbital sander then begin sanding by hand, finishing with 400.
Make sure all swirls and scratches have been removed by using a magnifier, I wear a Bausch and Lomb visor throughout the entire sanding process looking for hiding scratches. If you don’t get those scratches now, they will haunt you and become accentuated as you apply successive coats of oil and will be difficult to remove, you do not want to go backwards at this point. Once the sanding is finished, clean, buff and polish all surfaces with a soft, clean rag free of buttons, stitching or any other hard foreign matter that would scratch.
One could begin to apply tung oil at this point, I prefer applying a coat of wax free shellac prior to the oil to seal the wood. The first coat of oil over shellac looks like the third coat of oil over bare, raw wood, it’s a bit of a head start. Be very careful not to over apply the shellac, put it down and move on. Over applied areas can be carefully sanded level before applying the oil or stain. Apply in small areas and have a plan before you start the application. Once dry, sand lightly with 320 grit followed by very fine steel wool, then buff and polish.
Often times, there is color variation within the wood so at this point, I apply two coats of wiping stain to make the piece much more uniform in color. A shellacked surface is a wonderful sub surface for stain because it controls variation of stain absorption, making for a much more uniform finish. When completely dry, buff and polish.
Apply the first coat of tung oil with a soft clean rag, working in small areas. Wipe immediately, tung oil dries fast and will become sticky, remove all oil and allow to dry 24 hours before the next coat. Never put your project in the direct sun to dry, the oil will heat and expand, oozing out of the grain only to dry as little pimply bubbles. After every 3 coats or applications, stop and lightly sand with 400 grit and very fine steel wool to keep the surface smooth and level, then buff and polish with a smooth rag before the next coat. Don’t rush the applications, It’s very important to allow the oil to dry for 24 hours between coats to harden. The way the finish develops it’s wonderful deep sheen is by vigorous buffing and polishing between coats and the oil must be hard and dry, otherwise, it will scratch. By now, you should be using plenty of elbow grease and clean, soft rags.
The beauty of the tung oil finish is you can put down several coats and it will never cloud but only become deeper, 10 or more coats and a couple of weeks is not uncommon.
Once you have achieved the desired depth and sheen, allow to cure for several days before applying two coats of wax. The main ingredients for a great tung oil finish is plenty of time and elbow grease.
To see more of William Bardick’s work CLICK HERE
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Q & A from Our Readers
- I am using water based stains and sometimes the stain dries too fast. What is the solution?
- As you have seen, if the stain dries too fast you will get streaks. One way to fix this is to use the same stain to liquefy the dry stain. Go over the area and wipe it quickly.
If stain is drying too quickly it is best to work in smaller area of the piece so the first swipe doesn’t dry before you get to the last swipe.
- I have a big problem when I brush my finish. I get brush marks and sometimes the finish makes bubbles.
- Thin the finish. The bubbles have a longer tome to pop and the brush marks have more time to level out. You should experiment on scrap wood to determine how much you should thin.
Take a Break and Have Some Fun!
See how many words you can find. Look for words horizontally and vertically. You can print this page, including the puzzle, work offline and then highlight words as you find them.