While we may think that applying a film finish such as lacquer or polyurethane over natural wood can be a challenge, here\u2019s a much tougher one: achieving a flawless painted finish. Blemishes in a clear film finish are disguised by the color and grain pattern of the wood. There\u2019s no such hiding place with paint. Light playing across a painted surface only draws attention to any surface defects \u2013 and any pattern of wood grain showing through paint now becomes a defect instead of a feature.
As with most things, there\u2019s good news and bad news about this. The good news: you can achieve a finish so flawless that it looks as if it belongs in an automobile showroom. The bad news is mainly for the \u201cI want it finished NOW\u201d crowd: doing this right takes time and patience. But that\u2019s about as bad as it gets, so even if you\u2019re a touch on the impatient side you may find this isn\u2019t too hard to bear.
Whatever kind of piece you\u2019re building \u2013 whether it\u2019s free-standing or built-in \u2013 it\u2019s almost always easier to finish individual components before they\u2019re assembled. For a paint finish, that means filling, sanding and caulking all surfaces so they\u2019re dead flat and free of imperfections before the paint goes on. It also means filling, puttying and sanding every single joint and crevice. The tiniest hairlines will look like the Grand Canyon once paint is applied. Paint won\u2019t flow into the cracks so they\u2019re as obvious as if they had searchlights turned on them.<\/p>\n
As a result, your prep starts with filling the surface of every component so that it\u2019s absolutely flat. You can use a spackling compound to do this, but for larger areas a light drywall finishing compound may more economical, plus it sands well. Apply the compound using a 3-inch wide putty knife, and then remove as much as possible using the same knife. DAP latex caulk can be handy when trying to smooth curved or textured surfaces. You can use your finger to apply it and it\u2019s ideal for filling nail holes in moldings after an installation.<\/p>\n
A low, raking light across the work surface will show up hills and valleys as you sand the first application of filler. Bright and portable shop task lights work well for this. Once the first application of filler dries that raking light will show where you need to fill or sand a bit more. You will need a second application of spackle or filler; you might need a third. Be sure to use a sanding block so the surface stays level when you\u2019re smoothing flat panels. Cork glued to a hardwood block is ideal for this job. Joints between components are best filled with a thin, flexible putty knife.<\/p>\n
A while ago I noticed that none of the newer putty knives I owned did as good a job as an old knife from my grandfather\u2019s tool chest. I habitually reached for it because it was better at forcing putty or filler into joints than any new knife I had. The secret, as it turned out, was drop dead simple: the old blade had been worn to an ultra-thin and flexible edge, allowing it to go where no knife had ever gone before. A bit of time spent honing the blades of newer knives soon improved their performance until they were on a par.<\/p>\n
You really must be meticulous about filling. Carefully fill the joint, packing it with putty or spackling compound using your new improved knife, and then use the knife to remove all excess filler, leaving a clean right angle. Small artist\u2019s palette knives such as a small set from Lee Valley Tools ( part no. 35K09.01) can come in handy.<\/p>\n
You want any corners to be square, not rounded over with caulk so they look as if they were coved. If all is not perfect after the filler dries, any bits standing proud of the surface can be smoothed using a piece of folded P400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Any remaining valleys must be filled with another application of filler, again taking care to keep all corners sharp and square.<\/p>\n
I have to emphasize that if you\u2019re in a rush, this prepping and filling will make you crazy. But if you\u2019re impatient it will show in the final result, so take a deep breath and try to chill. Rome wasn\u2019t built in a day, and a top quality paint finish can\u2019t be done in a day either. If it\u2019s Tuesday and your clients expect the job to be finished by Wednesday, you\u2019d better have a chat with them. Whether the pressure on you is external from a client or internal nederlandsegokken online casino<\/a> from your own impatience, the only result from rushing and cutting corners will be a lousy final product.<\/p>\n Always set aside adequate time to simply look at the piece to be delivered or installed. It\u2019s remarkable how many little imperfections jump out at you when you take the time to look a piece of furniture over carefully, seeing it from different angles or with different lighting. Now is the time to fix them. Meanwhile that little voice in the back of your mind will be telling you, \u201cOkay, \u30aa\u30f3\u30e9\u30a4\u30f3 \u30ab\u30b8\u30ce<\/a> that\u2019s good enough. The paint will cover the rest.\u201d Ignore the temptation. The \u30aa\u30f3\u30e9\u30a4\u30f3 \u30ab\u30b8\u30ce<\/a> paint will not online casino gids<\/a> cover the rest; it will highlight it.<\/p>\n