Straining is a topic that we talk a lot about in our Prep to Finish paint training program (preptofinish.com). Conventional wisdom and common sense dictate that straining is a great way to remove contaminants from product while it is still in liquid form. This is...
The easy way to repair sand- and rub-throughs on sharp edges is with a marker of a similar color to that of the stain used. These markers are widely available. If you sand through an edge between coats of finish, simply color in the sand-throughs and apply another...
When coloring in lighter rub-throughs, glue splotches or wood-putty patches, it’s usually best to paint in the grain first, then add the color to each side of the grain. If you go the other way, coloring in the entire area before painting in the grain, you’ll often...
The most efficient methods of applying stain are by wiping or spraying. Brushing is very slow, often too slow with water-based stains that dry rapidly. When you have wetted a given surface with the stain, quickly wipe off the excess. With water-based stains, try...
The easy way to tell if you have removed all the finish is to look at the surface in a reflected light. Remaining finish will show up as shiny areas, in contrast to the dull areas where the finish has been removed. Don’t be fooled by stain still in the wood. Rarely...
It takes quite a bit of effort to sand through veneer when sanding by hand. But machine tools can go through fairly quickly. The critical thing when you sand through is to stop! If the sand-through area is small enough, you may be able to fix it by painting in some of...
There’s almost always a little dust that settles onto the last coat of finish before it dries, even when you spray fast-drying lacquer. With slow drying varnish, there’s always dust stuck to the finish. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles...
